Entry to the castle grounds is up a short flight of steps and through the eighteenth century outer gate. A glance to the left at this point reveals the circular domed sentinel box of King George’s Battery which juts from this part of the castle wall and is one of the main focal points from the surrounding area. However, it is the imposing Governor’s House, built in 1735, that commands attention. The upper part is still occupied but visitors are welcome to explore the artefacts in the museum on the lower floor.
The Guard House and Portcullis Arch
On passing through the sixteenth century Guard House, a long flight of stone steps behind the mansion house leads to the upper parts of the Rock. Inside the Guard House are the two oldest remains found in the area: gravestones from about the tenth or eleventh century, which were excavated in one of the garden terraces. Through the other side, the steps continue upwards, passing under the fourteenth century Portcullis Arch, which is thought to be the oldest structure surviving on the Rock.
At one time, this would have blocked access to the flat area between the two summits, although it was also used as a bridge between them at times. It is a long steep walk to the top of Dumbarton Castle but it is worth persevering, not least for the views up and down the River Clyde, while the River Leven can be seen from the western side.
The French Prison
There are two directions in which to walk from the Portcullis Arch: to the western summit, White Tower Craig, where there is nothing more exciting than the remains of an eighteenth century windmill, or north to the level centre between the summits. The latter was the centre of occupation throughout the Rock’s history. The only surviving building is the 18th century French Prison used during the Napoleonic wars, which is now undergoing some renovation.
There was another point of entry to the castle at one time, the North Entry, which faced the town of Dumbarton. It was through here that the Earl of Lennox sneaked under the gate and captured the castle in 1514. However, this entrance was soon a ruin and was eventually incorporated into the Duke of York’s Battery at the end of the 18th century.
The Magazine and King George's Battery
One other interesting building remains on the eastern summit. The Magazine, which contained one hundred and fifty barrels of powder, was built on the Beak in 1748 to withstand any gunfire or artillery bombs. There are a few more batteries at strategic points around the Rock, although none as impressive as the black cannons that forever aim towards the Clyde from King George’s Battery in front of the Governor’s House.
Historic Scotland
Dumbarton Castle is now in the care of Historic Scotland and some of its remaining structures are still under renovation. It is a hidden gem, nestling on its twin-peaked volcanic rock. Yet, it is questionable how many people viewing it from across the water would ever believe that such an unassuming rock was once at the very centre of Scotland’s turbulent history from the Dark Ages to the Twentieth Century.
As Dorothy Wordsworth, said of Dumbarton Castle in 1803:
“I never saw rock in nobler masses, or more deeply stained by time and weather; nor is this to be wondered at, for it is in the very eye of sea-storms and land-storms, of mountain winds and water winds.”
 |
 |
 |
